ESCAPE TO SHANGHAI ~ Atelier d’Orient Shanghai Lily Tom Ford


rain w hotel hong kong

Margaret Fong watched as the typhoon rain made watercolor neon dragons race down the windows of the W Hotel Hong Kong. She sat in the window wrapped in a mink coat unable to sleep from the residue of adrenalin that had fueled her escape from San Francisco.  She could never go home again. What a strange circle completed its cycle to bring her to the place where her great grandfather many times over had left for America. 

She touched the hard as a diamond cold glass that protected her from the storm. Emerald skinned rain dragons with sapphire and ruby eyes seemed to turn a look at her from Victoria Peak.  Steam billowed from their nostrils as they took flight above the city then turned out over the harbor their glowing neon wings lighting the underbelly of the typhoon that battered Hong Kong. She smiled. She didn’t even know how to speak Cantonese.

skyfall dragons

(Dragons borrowed from Skyfall)

She was rich now, richer than anyone in her family had ever been. The large canary yellow diamond on her finger winked at her with cool confidence. She brought her hand down from the window and licked the surface of the diamond then polished it with the sleeve of her mink. Perhaps it had been foolish to have bought it in the jewelry store downstairs. An impulse purchase when she arrived that morning just hours ahead of the storm. She glanced up at the television to see her face on the screen. She was the big story on a slow news day for CNN. She muted the sound.

Her next move had to be to stay on the move. A train would be better than a plane. But where to go, where does a woman who has just embezzled forty four million dollars from one of the richest high tec companies in the world hide?  She opened her purse and pulled out her newly forged passport and ID. The best that hot money could buy, Lily Chu Beijing, People’s Republic of China. She dropped the papers on the table and took out her scarlet lipstick and compact. The most beautiful girl from Galileo High School looked back at her in the tiny mirror.

Fan Bingbing as Lily Chu Escape to Shanghai(Fan Bingbing as Lily Chu)

That face had gotten her pretty far, her brains brought her the rest of the way; she decided not to freshen her mouth. She snapped the compact shut and looked back at the television. She was still on the screen. She grabbed the remote and changed the channel.

An old movie flickered in black and white fuzzy close-up glamour and filled the screen. She smiled in recognition of the images from the past. It had been one of her mother’s favorite movies because she loved Anna May Wong. Anna did nothing for Margaret; it was the glamorous blonde with the funny accent that had captured her imagination as a little girl. It was odd to see her now with her dialog in Cantonese subtitles at the bottom of the screen. The movie began to work its magic once again, even without sound. She flicked the mute button on just at Marlene Dietrich spoke to Clive Brook,

 Shanghai Lilly Marlene Dietrich

“It took more than one man to change my name to Shanghai Lily.”

The new Lily that was once Margaret laughed out loud. Maybe that was why she chose Lily for her alias; the name had stuck with her all these years. And Shanghai, that would be an interesting stop along her escape into the land of 1.3 billion. One quick phone call and she was booked on the midnight express to Shanghai.

The storm had subsided to a mere tropical annoyance as Lily Chu in dark glasses and wrapped in her new mink hurried though the Hung Hom station to catch her train to her future.  “Pardon me” she said as she brushed past a man in a black wool overcoat. He turned to watch her with icy sapphire eyes. Then with measured ease set out after her. Just as Lily settled into her compartment he train let out a low growl and then its high piercing whistle screamed.  As the wheels ground against the steel rails pulling the train out of the station, Lily had no idea that she was being followed to Shanghai.



Tom Ford’s Shanghai Lily from his Atelier d’Orient line is an exotic, stunning entry into the Oriental Floral garden. It is languorous, lithe and liable to lead to trouble. I have no idea if the inspiration behind this perfume is the Marlene Dietrich character of Shanghai Lily from the Josef von Sternberg film “Shanghai Express” (1932). If not, well, this perfume certainly carries all the mystery and intrigue that is found in Dietrich’s portrait of a lady who one character describes as a “Coaster, a woman who lives by her wits along the China coast.”

The perfume is loaded with more notes than Lily’s steamer trunk is filled with French unmentionables.  They come at you all at once in a locomotive rush. Bitter orange, pink and black pepper, cloves, spices and incense kick of the exotic journey, I get a definite mince meat pie accord here that is delicious and long lasting.

In the center of the perfume there is exotica galore as the perfume continues its excursion along your pulse points. Floral notes push in on the opening notes layered over with a sensual labdanum, jasmine, rose and a hint of tuberose. It goes together with the spicy mix so well. And the peppers and cloves laid out in the opening meet up with olibanum, a light layer of barely perceptible vanilla and benzoin keep it from being too pretty.

The dry down at journey’s end is a solid base of cashmere wood, sassy castoreum, guaiac wood and vetiver. This combo keeps this perfume sexually ambiguous and as enticingly daring as Marlene Dietrich was in a man’s tux in the early 1930’s.  It is a well blended perfume that works to the advantage of both men and women. Lasting on my skin a good ten hours and leaving a va va voom sillage for those looking to make an entrance. And what an entrance this perfume makes. Pure star power all the way from opening credits to fade out, as directed by Tom Ford this Shanghai Lily is a box office hit.





“Falling in love again…never wanted to….what am I to do? I can’t help it.” The indelible glamour of Marlene Dietrich is legendary. Her style unique and daring in the early 1930’s was groundbreaking. Wearing a man’s tuxedo she sang and flirted with Gary Cooper and kissed a female extra  in “Morocco”. Marlene in that tux had more magnetism and sensuality than she would ever have if she had been singing in a Travis Banton gown .

Off the screen she picked up on Chanel’s appropriation of men’s clothing and took it to a new level with slacks, loafers and men’s shirts. And what scent did this sexy gender bending star sport? Knize 10 for Men.

(Marlene shocking in trousers.)

Launched in 1920 Knize 10 is considered one of, if not the top of the line in the Leather groups for Perfume. I personally love it though I do favor Chanel’s Cuir de Russie just above it in subtly of opening notes. (Both were launched in 1924)  I find Knize 10 also to be reminiscent of the wonderful Versace L’homme another great leather scent.

The top notes of orange lemon petit grain bergamot blast out of the bottle on first spray and sock you in the face. It is almost a motor oil-gas smell you get when you kick start a motorcycle.  This in your face and not unpleasant assault dissipates very quickly to reveal the up front rich leather that is the dominating note all the way to the end of the life of this fragrance. The patchouli and musk do there part to support this very masculine and sensual leather. It is like wearing a well broken in leather motorcycle jacket with out a shirt in the summer on a Harley racing down highway 1 from Big Sur to Cambria. The wind in your face and the smell of the tar up from the asphalt and the leather and sweat out from the jacket, it is Man Smell heaven. There are some flowers whipping past in the heat of the ride, rose, iris and a smidgen of carnation. But they are very light in their passing. The woods along the road come to play on an occasional curve you are hit with the summery warmth of cedar and sandalwood, luscious and intoxicating as they blend in with that musky leather. In the dry down the amber notes and oak moss do there best to keep up with the leather and it all dies out in a lovely last breath at about 8 hours after the journey began.

(Bixby bridge Highway 1  Big Sur California)

  This old school classic is anything but old. It is vibrant and modern in the most wonderful and unique way. And it is a pro at projecting with fine silage that garners some attention.  Mature is the order of the day with Knize 10, it is not for little boys to pay with matches like these. They could start a fire that is too hot to handle. “If their wings get burned I know I’m not to blame.”

I  just recently read somewhere that James Dean fancied Knize 10 as well as Marlene. If a Hollywood Rebel and The Scarlett Empress worked this sexy juice to their advantage then that tells you just how special it is.

(James Dean)

 KNIZE 10 For Men ~Five gold stars *****

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