A SPLASH OF CAPRI ~ Smashingly Brilliant by Diana Vreeland

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“He just quit! Balenciaga just shut up shop and quit.” Mona Bismarck’s voice was on the teeter-totter of emotions between tears and laughter. “No darling QUIT, Can you HEAR me? We have a bad connection. Cristóbal says no one has style any longer. It’s the hippies I tell you! They’ve killed fashion!”

Diana could hear Mona on the phone from the cool blue of the villa’s interior. Her voice tumbled past the chiffon drapes seeming to almost push them out against the incoming warm breeze and across the terrace to where Diana stood. It was the end of an era no doubt about that, If you wore Balenciaga you were the only woman in the room – no other woman existed. But now that he was finished how boring it would be to hang on to the past, with all the magnificence of today and tomorrow opening before the world.

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    The Bay of Naples sparkled all blue sapphires and white diamonds in the sun and in the distance Vesuvius wore a broad sunhat of flat white clouds.  Diana smiled to herself and walk to the edge of the terrace to where the path lead down the steep cliffs to the roman sea of Catullus’s poetry and Tiberius’ treachery. As far as she was concerned the hippies had great style and it was born from being positively original. The 60’s were the most exciting decade since her youth bubbled over in the 1920’s. The music, the colors the street fashion and Mick Jagger’s Lips! Positively Marvelous!

1968, was it really only two years ago that Reed died? Her first time back to Capri since then. There were so many wonderful times with Reed in Capri. Mona’s hissing rising voice plucked at her ears like stinging harpies. She looked up at the statue of Augustus perched on the precipice arm stretched out over the tops of the juniper trees that clung to the cliffs below. He was pointing to Sorrento. Suddenly she had to get away.

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   When she reached the beach the heat of the day was at its zenith. That wonderful caressing heat that snaked across the sea from Africa laden with the smell of flowering Italian lemon trees and climbing geraniums. She kicked off her sandals at the edge of the water and pushed her Chinese red lacquered toenails into the cool water.  She wiggled them watching with great amusement the rubies that were her toes dance under the turquoise salted waters. All of this in the wonderful light of Capri…well lighting is everything in a color.  She’d said that often enough.

Down she sat on the small marble white pebbles keeping her toes submerged and looked across the bay to the mountain that loomed over Pompeii. That was where she and Reed first saw the fresco of the slave girl in “Capri” Sandals. The easy sensuality of those ancient shoes worn by a young girl frozen in ashy time had impressed her as timeless, beautiful and somehow tender. She shut her eyes and drifted into the past.

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“You smell like Capri Diana.”

She opened her eyes to see Reed coming out of the Tyrrhenian Sea, golden tan, young and in love with life and with her.

Still sometimes a little shy of him she smiled with reserve.  “I have been making my own perfume out of bergamot and suede and germanium petals. Do you like it? I think it will be the hit of 1928.”

“The height of vanity, making your own perfume.” He teased and followed it with a wink.

“I loathe narcissism, but I approve of vanity.”

With his intrinsic grace he descended to sit beside her looking every inch Apollo with his noble head blotting out the sun thus making it his crown. He leaned over and smelled her skin. “It is divine darling. Like summer after the rain.”

Diana watch him as he turned his face away and looked out over the bay. She wondered still that this marvelous man, had come into her life and found her as fascinating as she knew she was. “Do you like it here Reed?”

“No prohibition here and it is beautiful. I love it Diana.” He turned back to her.

“Prohibition. Insane idea. Try to keep me from taking a swallow of a cup of tea and I’ll drink the whole pot.”

Reed laughed. “You have wit my darling. That is one of your charms you know.”

“A funny person is funny only for so long, but a wit can sit down and go on being spellbinding forever. Witty talk is without question the most fascinating entertainment there is.”

He smiled and looked up at the ruins of the Villa Jovis.  “Do you like Capri?”

“Heaven on earth my love, utterly and completely divine. The only thing I find I like better than this island is London and like London only because it is so close to Paris. ”

“Then we shall come back again as often as we can.” Reed said as he turned back to her as a sunflower follows the sun. He leaned in to pull his young wife into his arms. She closed her eyes and inhaled.

“You also smell like Capri darling.” She said softly and looked up into his eyes “And it is smashingly brilliant.”

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(Reed and Diana Vreeland)

***

I have not been to Capri the island of the virgin daughters of Phorcys known as the Sirens.  But I have been very close, the Amalfi Coast. And if Capri smells anything like the junipers and lemon groves of Sorrento in spring then I know I would love it as much as Diana Vreeland did.

The new release Smashingly Brilliant by the house of Diana Vreeland was inspired by her love of Capri. Being the newest addition to the line this has burst upon the spring scene like the much anticipated release from winter’s grip that we have all been waiting for. This is a fragrance that will not merely carry one into spring, but on though the high heat of winter and into the lingering warm days of a fading fall. Smashingly Brilliant is the first fragrance from Diana Vreeland designed for both men and women. This is wonderful news, for though I truly believe that many in the line are uni-sex Smashingly Brilliant opens the doors to men of a less adventuresome nature. And that is great! This house should be discovered by everyone who loves magnificent perfumes.

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   The nose behind this Citrus Aromatic is Clement Gavarry who also created two of my other favorites in the line, Extravagance Russe and Simply Divine.   Amani Code, Prada Amber, Lovely Sara Jessica Parker and Black Violet Tom Ford are a few of his many highlights as a perfumer.

Clement Gavarry opens the fragance bright and sunny and very Italian with the top notes of Italian lemons, succulent Calabrian bergamot, summer warmed aromatic juniper berries and a true Italian touch, basil. It gleams and sparks on the skin, a real wake up happy and ready to go opening.

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   The heart note is a solo star center stage and in full spicy bloom. The aria in Vreeland Red that is a beautiful peppery geranium. It unfolds on the skin in stages like the blooms of the flower it comes from. Fluttering open at the rise of heat from the skin as the flowers do in the full glory of an adoring Mediterranean sun.

The geranium carries into the dry down that is as comfortable as a pair of those Capri sandals Mrs. Vreeland first saw in Pompeii. The suede note is soft and caressing on the skin and warms up the dry down in a creamy supple leather note. Not a hard biting leather but buffed relaxing leather like those fine perfect driving gloves one finally finds at Bergdorf Goodman or Neiman Marcus. A perfect fit on the skin. This wonderful leather is wrapped around fresh wood notes that add to the masculinity of this side of the scent. It is smart, bright and ready to go. Purely scintillating from top note to bottom.

Silage is low and close to the skin. With a fragrance like this made for the outdoors and sporting around in convertibles and on the tennis court who would want it any other way. For some the longevity may be an issue for on my skin it fades at between three and four hours. For me that is just the perfect excuse to refresh. In the words of Diana Vreeland, “Perfume is an extravagance.  But it’s odd that Americans, who God knows are an extravagant people, have never used scents properly.  They buy bottles, but they don’t splash it on.  Chanel always used to say, keep a bottle in your bag, and refresh yourself with it continually.”

And how refreshing Smashingly Brilliant is. Go ahead, splash it on!

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THE VIEW FROM THE 20TH FLOOR ~ Simply Divine by Diana Vreeland Perfumes

o.2020

From his perch on the 20th floor there was only one thing on his mind and it was her. The city stretched south down 5th ave. in 5am slumber, winking its traffic lights from red to green in a slow jazz syncopation.  The glow of Times Square was pushing up the side of buildings just over there. A smear of red dawn smudged the eastern sky like the rouge on her cheeks. It was too late for cocktails and too early for coffee. The fireworks were long gone yet he wanted to celebrate. He wanted to kiss her. It was the 5th of July 1924 and she had changed everything.

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Only last month he stood every night in the same spot as he did now. Drinking martinis and feeling blue. He had it all, old money, good manners, and he was handsome, but always blue around the edges and a little lonely. He watched the couples dancing at El Morocco and the frantic beauties that hopped into cabs in the rain heading for 21. He didn’t particularly need romance but he felt something was missing; someone extraordinary was not in his life and the fact of it left him down and in the depths.

On the turn of a tango just last night the girl dancing with the Argentinean gigolo caught his eye and smiled.  He had seen her earlier in the evening when she passed his table at the Cotton Club on her way to the powder room. As she glided by the silage of her perfume tickled him behind his left ear. She was not beautiful in an obvious way like the dime a dozen pretty things of Manhattan. In fact her looks were perfectly funny. But when she smiled he could see she had style. Style to burn and charm enough for the rest of his life.

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When the Duke Ellington orchestra shook off the tango to slip lightly into a slow foxtrot he cut in on the Argentinean. As he guided her backwards around the edge of the dance floor the foxtrot tuned into a waltz that in turn lead them to a night of terpsichorean rapture. As they polished the parquet floor till their feet were sore he came to realize just how extraordinary she was. She had that something extra, a pizzazz that was electric.  At four in the morning he took her home and said good night under the red awning of her apartment building.

The east sides of the city’s towers were turning from grey to rose with the first light of the sun. It hit him with such a force, the realization that he would marry her, and after tonight he would never be blue again.  As a thousand suns winked at him from as many windows, he recalled her parting words to him just as she disappeared into her building.

“You, my dear, are simply divine.”

***

 Reed and Diana Vreeland

Simply Divine by Diana Vreeland is and extraordinarily beautiful perfume. It evokes a more romantic age of the 1920’s and yet is quite vibrant and modern. It is a class act that is as sophisticated as cocktails in smart evening clothes and as chic as a Renaissance red cap is with black jeans and a black tee shirt. It has a shimmering vibrancy that is inviting to both men and women. It is gorgeous, an instant classic.

This floral fragrance is all about the garden. Smelling it on the spray nozzle or on paper it is purely white flowers. The scent is dominated by tuberose, but not your everyday tuberose. On the skin, on my skin it turns to the greens of the garden and the flowers fall back and take a secondary place. It is very much like a country garden in high summer where the heat invigorates the lush green leaves and they fill the air. It is not a summer fragrance. No this one is for the fall and winter. And in wearing it in those seasons it is a remembrance of summers past. The nose behind Simply Divine is Clement Gavarry, who is also known for among others, Black Violet by Tom Ford, Armani Code, Prada Amber and Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker. He also created Extravagance Russe for Diana Vreeland.

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It opens with very bright green leaves and a dash of nutmeg. This combo is immediately married to the tuberose and the three notes entwine and complement each other for the entire performance of the perfume. Orange blossoms and jasmine are there in the background to lend the idea of the rest of the garden but overall it is green.

In the dry down the base notes come up with powdered sandalwood and lush cashmere wood. There is a vanilla hint that is lent to the base by tonka bean. And it is all held in place to the end by a clean slightly soapy layer of musk.

On my skin it plays overtly uni-sex. It lasted well over twelve hours and the silage bubble reached out about two feet for most of the day. It is a green fragrance that hangs in a place between a classic floral and a Chypre which will make it accessible to men who don’t mind being simply divine. When I wore this perfume it garnered more complements than I have every gotten on from almost any other perfume. Women loved it and men wanted to know what it was and were they could get a bottle.

I am really impressed with the entire line of perfumes by the house of Diana Vreeland. And it was hard to choose which one to purchase. They like the woman who inspired them are bold, commanding and impressive. These perfumes have something to say and what they talk about is always interesting. In the end I realized that if you are going to dive into the Diana Vreeland pool you have to jump head first into the deep end. So I chose the most spectacular of the five in the line.Simply Divine.

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Alexander Vreeland

Diana Vreeland was called the Empress of Fashion, the editor in chief of both Harpers Bazaar and Vogue she changed the face of fashion in America and the world. As Lauren Hutton said about her, “She was an upside down original!” The man behind the perfume line is Alexander Vreeland, the grandson of Mrs. Vreeland. His life long intention has been to create something that captures the essence of his beloved and extraordinary grandmother. How perfect a way to do this is perfume? I had the great privilege to be able to tell Alexander Vreeland that he had succeeded in his dream to honor her and that he has done his grandmother proud.

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SIMPLY DIVINE Five Platinum Stars *****

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“UN-SHINED SHOES ARE THE END OF CIVILIZATION!” Diana Vreeland ~ DV Perfume Launch at Neiman Marcus.

o.2020

You better believe I had my new shoes polished to within an inch of blinding the populace when I went today to Neiman Marcus for the launch of Diana Vreeland Perfumes. It was an amazing event hosted by Tony Mendez the rep for the line at Neimans. He pulled out all the stops as you will see in the video. The documentary on Mrs. Vreeland “The Eye Has To Travel” was even running on a widescreen television. Well it was Absolutely Marvelous!

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 My review of the perfume I chose from the line will be up later this weekend. But in the meantime, won’t you join me?

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