AN UNNERVING CHILD ~ Arpege by Lanvin Paris ~ Guest Review


Dear readers it is time to celebrate the opening of The Perfumed Dandy’s blog with a guest post by none other than the Dandy himself!  Today he takes us to Paris where he fist fell in love with women’s perfumes. Now I ask you, where else but in Pairs would a dandy fall in such a way for such a thing.

Without further ado and such may I present Monsieur Dandy and his little friend Mademoiselle Arpege!


Arpege by Lanvin

She appears at first to be such an unnerving child, though she is not a child at all really.

You arrive at the neat counterfeit of a country cottage that is her parents’ home.  Your dear friend Andre and his wife Jeanne’s ‘little piece of the Languedoc ‘ in Paris’s Beaux Quartiers.  Not far from the Musee Marmottan, a little before the Bois de Boulogne.

She greets you: all gamine beauty but wilful and headstrong, almost unhinged.


Her mother asks her to collect flowers for the house from the Fraysee’s beautiful garden.

She – Margaret is her given name, used exclusively by her mother when upset with her, which is often – turns more than a touch feral.

A  teen on a chemical kick she rushes around the manicured borders that pretend after the style of rural meadows pulling up plants careless, or perhaps all too conscious,  of their complexion and the destruction she is reeking.


Her mission completed, she dumps the result of her floricultural firestorm:  a frenzy of Jasmine, Rose, Iris, Lily, Lily of the Valley, even the precious camellias from the cloche, in a series of unwashed carafes still sour with the stench of last night’s rough white wine.

In the music room, where she places three bloom burdened vessels in a row atop an apparently out of tune upright piano the smell is approaching the unbearable.

Then she starts to hammer out her chromatic - 49447 blue_eyes clouds flowers instrument isou_nagi long_hair megurine_luka piano pink_hair rose vocaloid

You notice that it is her playing and not the instrument that is off-key. Then you notice that she is doing it quite deliberately.

You catch and then return a sly smile with the daughter of the house. She is affecting inability as acutely as only a true musician can.

What feels like a moment’s conversation of an hour or so follows. She excuses herself to change for dinner.


Whilst the women are preparing themselves you talk politics and the economy and the desperate state of things since the Great Crash and Andre teaches you a new aperitif – vanilla Martinis – the latest American way of forgetting.

Jeanne enters, elegance as ever.

And after her mother, the daughter appears. Her ebony hair tied up to reveal her ivory neck, the style held in place with artist’s pencil.

At dinner she grows, with a glass of wine in hand, into what you realise she now is: a beautiful young woman.


Well read, she speaks eloquently of Eliot and that woman Woolf.

Her fragrance? Is it her mother’s sandalwood or father’s vetiver that envelopes her, or both?

After eating you retire to sweet Amarettos and honeyed Chopin played by the same delicate hands that earlier tore up roots with angry urgency and blundered through elementary piano exercises.

Then she is gone: upstairs for an early night.

She is merely on the cusp of womanhood, holding within her the promise of future greatness, perhaps even an echo of her mother’s magnificent past.



Arpege, even in her reigned in contemporary form is a perennially prickly perfume, quite impossible to get to know at once.

Her behaviour in the opening notes is by most measures quite unseemly and to some noses downright upsetting.

But forbearance and a little understanding see this slightly acidic aledhyde blossom first into a full-bodied floral and then a warm-hearted almost wooded amber scent that never loses her edgy integrity.

Arpege can give the best in class – including the biggest names – a run for their money.

People speak in hushed tones of her family heritage and I would have loved to have met her mother in her vintage days.


The part of Arpege played by Francoise Hardy

Please do pop over and visit our guest reviewer The Perfumed Dandy



  1. Dear Mr Lanier
    The Perfumed Dandy would like to thank you once again for playing host to him in the Americas.
    It is so very kind of you to take him under your wing, especially when he comes accompanied on this occasion by his willful, though increasing charming temporary charge Miss Arpege, daughter of his great friends The Lanvins.
    Lanier, you have also been and remain, a true scholar and a friend.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

  2. Very enjoyable. I especially like the bit about Margaret playing the piano deliberately off key. Brilliant!

    • Why thank you.
      And of course, to play deliberately and perfectly of key requires quite and enormous amount of effort and skill.
      Yours ever
      The Perfumed Dandy

  3. Nice piece. I like piano. I like Arpege. On the other hand I was a little too afraid of the pour Homme version. Read so much about it. Wanted it so much. But couldn’t bring myself to buying it. What a shame for now it has been discoutinued. Although I like men’s scents very much I always have this feeling the women got it all in the perfum world, as once I heard in a Brit sitcon: wives got it all, Gerard Depardieu’s wife got it all … I have an Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger that from time to time I wear and never fails getting some looks. I just love Kelly Caleche, which is in my want/wish list. One of this days. Thanks to both of you for giving us something nice to read. Ah, yes, Paris IS the place to fall in anything, any way, BIG way …

  4. An excellent review. I had smelled the masculine Arpege first, a velvety gourmand, and then I tried the original Arpege. I was surprised because they had nothing in common. But then the unnerving child developed and my jaw dropped. How could this sweet basenotes hide under the floral green opening. Then I realised what the name meant: a true progression of notes covering the entire spectrum.

  5. […] Arpege by Lanvin […]

  6. Wonderful post! I always loved the bottle too; the logo is just perfect.

  7. […] I remembered that, just as I was setting up home here, I penned a review of Arpege which the delightful Mr Lanier posted on his splendid Scentsmemory site by way of a housewarming […]

  8. I think I somehow missed this the first time, and adore this interpretation. Especially the part about pouring the perfume into a dirty white wine carafe…..yes, exactly, you are right – there is something sour and off in there sometimes.

    • Dearest Ginza
      First and foremost thank you to Mr Lanier for still so graciously hosting this young madam!
      So glad you enjoyed meeting her…
      As to that sour note, there are a few perfumes that have it and actually I can quite enjoy it in them Balmain de Balmain is another and Givenchy’s III has something of it too.
      I’ve known people to think they’ve turned for a while until they settle down.
      It;s that child-like unpredictability again I guess.
      Yours ever
      The Perfumed Dandy

      • The legendary Givenchy III…. now there’s a sourpuss I just don’t get or understand. Horrible!

      • Dearest Ginza
        Do you know – he looks a little coy – I much prefer the current reformulation, which is a finishing school version of Miss Dior.
        Unfortunately it was given such a limited release, just Harrods carry it here now, that no one seems ever to have heard of it.
        It was this one that I reviewed.
        Yours ever
        The Perfumed Dandy

      • You are welcome Dandy! I love this review!

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