AMOUR À L’OPÉRA ~ Fougère Royale by Houbigant Paris

Logo_Parfums_Houbigant_Paris_Haute_resolution

Palais Gernier Opera

Painting of the Paris Opera by Frank Myers Boggs

He spoke French so impeccably that anyone outside of Paris would have taken him for a Parisian. The Parisians on the other hand knew he was not French. In fact they knew exactly who he was. Well at least the aristocrats of the city knew, after all it is there job, their stock in trade one could say to recognize European royalty on the spot.

 

At the instant the oddly handsome Prince Aleksander Kostka alighted from his carriage at the curb half of the assembly ascending the steps to the Palais Garnier Opera house turned in unison to look upon his dashing form.

 Prince Aleksander Kostka

    “Oh there he is, the Polish Prince of mystery.” Comtesse de Roussillion tuned whispered to her husband. “I have heard he can never go back to Warsaw. Some scandal so unspeakable that…”

 

”Bonsoir Comtesse, je suis enchante”

 

She stifled a startled squeak as her hand was enfolded by the Prince and swept up to his perfectly chiseled lips which  barely brushed the satin of her opera gloves. This sent a thousand twittering magpies to flight in her now overheated veins.

 

He dropped her hand and with a clipped bow of the head and accompanied by a bemused smile he took is leave of the middle-aged woman who was now on the verge of fainting fit.

 

“Détendez-vous mon cher, il est juste un prince pas un dieu.” Her husband hissed in her ear like an over stoked locomotive.

 GarnierOperaParis

The entire foyer of the Opera was abuzz with excitement as the Prince entered. He assumed it was about the revival of the opera La Juive. It was not. For just as a ship is unaware of the wake it leaves behind so too was he blithely in the dark of the effect he created where ever he went. Generally happy with a tinge of melancholy from time to time he moved though life content.

 

As his right foot touched the first landing of the grand staircase he was completely oblivious that his life was about to be shattered by a look. He paused to decide which branch of the stairs to take; she brushed past him in a cloud of mesmerizing perfume. In heavy cream and gold satin from the house of Worth she floated to the landing above. His eyes followed her as she appeared and disappeared behind the columns until she came to pause in the opposite balcony of the grand foyer and turned toward him. Her smile faded as the air between them was sucked into a whirlwind of déjà vu. The hundreds of people on the stairs moved in a frivolous dance around the Prince who saw none of them, he would really never see anyone else in the same way since she, this night had opened his eyes to a new world.

 

“Aleksi…Aleksi! How are you?”

 

The Prince looked down to see his old friend Patrice Aubchon standing in stiff evening dress before him.

 

“What are you looking at?” Patrice turned. “Ah yes, her.”

 

Who is she and what is that perfume.

 

Only the most notorious and expensive courtesan in Paris my friend. Mademoiselle Marianne Deasún, and leave it to her to wear the most shocking fragrance. It is something new, Fougere Royal I think it is called. Too many notes and too masculine for a woman if you ask me, but there is talk of course that a woman now and then is not beyond her range. Ah well there you have it. That perfume is the current mode de Paris, half the men in here are wearing it, and only one woman dares to.

 Marianne Deasún

Marianne’s amber and green eyes held his eyes in lock. His in turn intrigued her with their hint of turquoise in a sea of blue.

 

“She smells like nothing I have ever experienced.”

 

Too many notes! A woman should smell like just one flower, a rose or lily of the valley.  But I must admit, on her it somehow works.

 

“I must meet her. I must smell her skin, up close.”

 

The gong sounded signifying that the opera was about to begin, she reluctantly released him from her ocular embrace and turned to walk to her box.

 

“Goodbye Patrice… I will see you later.” The Prince broke off from his amused friend and took the stairs two at a time. In the grand foyer he saw her disappear into the hall which lead to the boxes. When he entered the hall it was just in time to see her trailing skirts sashay behind an open door which closed softly behind her.

 

At the door to her box he hesitated then peeked though the tiny window. The house lights had gone down and as the curtain on the stage ascended accompanied by the first notes of the opera  Marianne’s profile was etched in pink and amber light.

 

He knocked on the door and waited for an answer.

 

*****

 

Fougere Royal 2010 by Houbigant is the modern interpretation by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux of the game changing Fougere Royal of 1882 by the nose Paul Parquet.

The original Fougere Royal was the first modern perfume (and the very first fougere, meaning fern) created in an age of solifleurs it was a shocking and exhilarating blend of notes. Paul Parquet was the first nose in the history of perfume to isolate a scent molecule, the coumarin from the Tonka bean, thus ushering in a modern form of perfumery with the first use of a synthetic in a perfume.  To create a classic fougere one must add to the coumarin note, lavender and oakmoss. This trifecta of notes is the basis for the first truly masculine perfume group, the fougere.

Fougère Royale Paul Parquet

In the 1882 Fougere Royal the notes are; top, lavender, clary sage and bergamot. Mid notes of carnation, orchid, heliotrope, geranium and rose and bottom notes consisting of Tonka bean, musk, vanilla, oakmoss and coumarin.

 

In the new version by Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Donna Karan Gold, Atelier d’Orient Fleur de Chine for Tom Ford, and Fleur de Louis for Arquiste to name but three of his brilliant creations) he has created not a reformulation as such, but a modern interpretation of the classic.

 houbigant-fougere-royale-MSL

As it hits the skin there is a silky edged citrus created by bergamot that suddenly sparks brightly then gives way to green notes, chamomile, clary sage and lavender. (lavender the must have note number one for a classic fougere)  This combination is dramatic, compelling, mesmerizing. The first time I smelled this on my skin I was speechless at the beauty of this opening. It is fuller, richer and more sophisticated than most fougeres that I have smelled. Like a great piece of jewelry, it is a statement piece, a signature promising greater beauty to come.

 

Central notes of green carnation, greener geranium combine with a subtle rose and a whisper of lilac that is dusted with a magical spice note of cinnamon. The brilliance of this combo is shimmering in its effect. Here the fragrance roils and billows beautifully projecting just enough to be elegant never stepping over the line into bombastic. There is only one word for this as it transitions into the dry down. Opulent.

 

In the base the central notes that draws you in with their gravitational pull just as they radiate like a great massive star is the oakmoss and coumarin. The bold butch muscle of the fougere is found in these two notes (must have notes number two and three)  Flores-Roux has replaced the musk and vanilla of the original with a banked smoldering amber, stoked with patchouli, Tonka bean it smolders for hours.

 

The entire effect of Fougere Royal (2010) is amazing. It is built upon the first modern masterpiece and brought into the 21st century with grace, beauty and a new modernity by the house of Houbigant Paris under the direction of the Perris perfume family. (see my post Le Grand Prix ~ Perris Monte Carlo Perfume Event, San Francisco) . I must give special thanks to my friend Michal Gizinski of Neiman Marcus who first introduced me to this fragrance. He is a brilliant man who is one of my mentors and teachers in the art of perfume. If you are in San Francisco and you love perfume go to Neiman’s and talk to Michal and find out why we call him The Nose of Union Square. More about Michal soon as we are organizing an interview for Scents Memory.

Paul_Parquet_-_Portrait_photograph

Paul Parquet father of the Fougere

Fougere Royal is a testament to the past, homage to Paul Parquet and his ground breaking creation. It is an example of true creative beauty by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux who has made so many beautiful perfumes.  And above all of this, it is a modern masterpiece of complexity, bold masculinity that stands as a formidable lighthouse in a sea of boring, watery clean laundry fresh fragrances.

Fougere-Royale-Perfumecafleurebon

Fougère Royale by Houbigant Paris ~ Five Platinum Stars *****

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14 Comments

  1. I love this! Am so glad you’re back from your travels! This is me tugging on your sleeve, “Will there be another story soon?” xox, V

    • Yes Sis there will be many more. Like Jimmy Durante said, “I gotta million of um!… ah cha cha cha! And goodnight Mrs. Callabash, where ever you are.”

      • YEAH!!!
        And, I have a little snippet of a story for you over at my place…
        xox, V

      • On my way!

  2. No one could write it quite like you, Lanier! ;) Thank you for that vicarious pleasure.
    As Jicky was my very first perfume aged 14, I’ve always been partial to that lavender-bergamot-coumarin-oakmoss quartet, so it goes without saying that when I saw this at Pitti Fragranze last autumn, I absolutely and positively Had To Sniff It. And just as you were, I was utterly blown away by its emerald green-ambery complexity and beauty. It shot to the top three of my FB list in a flash.
    Finally, someone underlines what fougères are all about – and what makes them so compelling!

    • Dear Tarleisio Jicky at such a young age! Now that is truly glamorous. thank you for your wonderful and very kind words. When I am knocked for a loop by a fragrance sometimes it all comes together in a good way in words. Would you believe that I have been mulling over this perfume for a year? Thank goodness my imagination showed up at the Opera the night Prince Aleksander met the love of his life. I wonder what is going to happen to them. We may never know but I do know that Fougere Royal will always be in my very top echelon of fragrances I love. Thank you again!

      • I fear something very dramatic and unusual awaits this couple…and somehow I doubt a happy ending!

        Merci dear one for sweeping me away on a fine tale for a few minutes today…the perfume seems quite worthy of your fancy.
        Gros, gros bisous,
        H

      • Bisous à toi ma douce cher

  3. Gorgeous. I loved how you played with the notes. Oh, the drama. Knock-knock. I got shivers. “The house lights had gone down and as the curtain on the stage ascended accompanied by the first notes of the opera.” Fragrance is very much like an opera or a composition. Brilliant! T. (Repeating myself, I know. A few years ago, I took a three-hour workshop at Osmothèque (world’s largest scent archive) at Versailles. I got to smell the Houbigant’s Florale Bouquet (1900). I was heaven. It was a perfect day.)

    • Theadora you can’t imagine how much your approval of this one means to me! After all to me you are Mademoiselle Paris herself. Thank you so very much. I dream of going to the Osmotheque someday. Much love and joy

  4. “Détendez-vous mon cher, il est juste un prince pas un dieu”! Well, perhaps it would apply to Kostka, but never to this review. Well done!

    • Shelly~! Si vous étiez Frank Sinatra je serais un Bobby-Soxer! Si vous étiez Les Beatles je serais criais! Si vous étiez Marilyn Monroe je serais Yves Montand! Thank you so much. xoxo

  5. Dearest M. L
    I saw a play yesterday in which a spouse (a wife in this case) ‘hissed like an over stoked steam locomotive’. A phrase, my friend, to fight duels over.
    As indeed this scent would seem to be.
    I’ve tried it and agree that there’s something very definitely of the theatre about this reimagination: emerald green auditorium plush sprinkled with rare spices.
    What a tale, what an aroma.
    Thank you, kind sir.
    Yours ever
    The Perfumed Dandy

    • Dearest Dandy! You are a peach! Thank you so much. It is a perfect scent for a night out at the theater!


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